I am bummed to report that it failed those expectations by a solid margin.



Here is what I thought:
Ambiance/Scence -- The first thing you notice is the smell. It envelopes you, a well- pampered pig bathing in butter. Decorwise, St. John is the epitome of a "Clean, Well-Lit Place" -- in fact, I could see Hemmingway's short story being set there . It bathes in austerity -- the walls are white, The floor is gray, and you aren't sure if the white-clad servers are servers or were just butchering a pig in the back before saying hello. There is no art to speak of. Chairs are hard and uncomfortable. Tables are covered in butcher paper, as if to indict you as an accomplice to murdering meat.
Service -- is competent and perfunctory, but certainly nothing special. The place was continually busy, but my server's actions made her intentions clear -- she was there to put meat on the table, not even expeditiously. I agreed with this review that said it was "friendly, but slightly awkward."
Food -- OK, so here we go ... on to the show.
Appetizer -- Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad
I loved this dish. amittedly, I am biased since I have been dreaming about this since I saw it featured on A Cook's Tour. I think that this could be the appetizer to my last meal. I mean, so simple. Bone marrow? Just oven roast for 25 minutes and spread over perfectly toasted bread. So delicious, so elegant. The richness of this with the bitter parsley and the salty capers in the salad was just a wonderful combination of textures and tastes.
My only (minor) criticism is that you really have to watch how much of the sea salt and the parsley salad you add to the bread since it can get really too salty quickly. Ration it properly!
Main -- Middlewhite and Chard w/ side of Sprout Tops
First, let me say I love pork fat. I think it's wonderful. However, this peice of meat needed instructions. You needed to eat the pig in radians out from the center such that you get a piece of succulent lean meat with a piece of fat. In my hunger I accidentally ate an enormous peice of fat by itself, which just ruined the rest of my meal on a texture and taste basis. I learned the hard way. The bits of meat that I did get once I learned to layer my bites were wonderfully cooked, but again underseasoned.
In addition, the chard was overcooked and had a slightly burnt taste to the carmelization (too high heat?) while the Sprout Tops were basically an afterthought -- unevenly cooked with varying degrees of softness and bitterness and also underseasoned.
Not a good showing overall.
Dessert -- Apple Sorbet and Polish Vodka
Many of you may be asking, "Why would you ever order something like this? I mean, what are you some sort of daisy?" That's a fair question. My answer is that a) I felt the pork fat coming out of my pores after the entree and b) I thought the apple would go nicely with the pig taste in my mouth.
Wrong. The sorbet just doesn't stand up to the chilled vodka. I eneded up shooting the vodka (hey you can take the boy out of Cleveland, but ...) and then enjoying the sorbet, which was wonderful. Nice layers of cinammon and ginger to accent the apple, but not enough to save the dish.
In sum: A Respectful Meh
So in all, I treat it as a pilgrimage to the place that started the hole nose to tail movement, which I can respect and get with. However, it was too uneven in food and service to even given a mention in the best restaurants at which I have ever eaten. Glad I went, but never will repeat, especially at 66 quid for the meal.
